The John Lobb brand is one of the leading manufacturers in Northampton, a city that earned its reputation as a center of footwear production in the seventeenth century. Although it became part of the Hermes Group in 1976, the factory continues to uphold the methods developed in the 19th century.
Technology is used, but sparingly. Specifically, lasers are not used to cut leather. Instead, plastic patterns are made, which are handed to clickers. Their title comes from the clicking sound of the knife blade hitting the cutting table. With special blades, they carve the leather by hand.
Production is limited, with only roughly 450 to 500 pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees often handle many designs in a single day, instead of repeating one routine step like in typical factories. Every shoe is built with the Goodyear method, allowing the worn sole to be changed without damaging the upper.
As with Hermes, John Lobb sources the best-quality hides, particularly from premium French calfskin. Only slightly more than half of the leather is appropriate for main shoe parts, while the remainder becomes smaller accessories.
The range combines iconic staples with subtle refinements. The classic City II model, for instance, have been given a more elegant outline. The Sennen model gained elongated straps and a more robust foundation. The Lopez model, introduced in the 1950s, received subtle color and sole innovations. Newer icons include the Porth model and the Levah trainers, which are released each season in various colors and materials.
Through its dedication to craftsmanship, John Lobb remains a defining name in world-class shoemaking.
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